I pop up to the surface, exhale and watch as the white wash rolls over the reef. The wave dissipates and the tug of the swell switches direction, pulling me and my attention back out to sea. I turn around and this time see a much larger wall of water encroaching on the horizon. My mind and body switches gears; this set is much bigger than the last. 

The blue wall grows steeper, sucking water into itself. I see it can’t hold much more until it breaks. Without words the three of us glance at each other and start swimming towards it. I adjust the grip on my camera, hoping I will be able to keep hold. Collectively we take a breath and duck beneath it, submerged in its power. Kick, kick, kick, I hold myself against the waves force but don’t move, I am suspended, the crest rumbles above me. After what feels like a while, the pressure begins to lift and we all pop up, wide eyed, relieved. 

We look ahead and see an even bigger one approaching. Less time to prepare this time, a few recovery breaths and we’re back under. Held under for longer this time, I hang nearer the bottom, unsure whether or not I will be able to withstand it. My bulky and floaty camera housing tugs away from me, but I tuck it in closer holding it to my belly. Just keep kicking and relax. Neither stressed, nor entirely at ease. No thoughts except hold on. Strong and fluid, move like water. 

I re-surface. As I exhale I see a third wall is almost upon us, high on the horizon. A deep breath and I dive again. This time it passes quicker, it feels sure of itself and fast. Used to this now I duck down, pushing against the buoyancy of the camera. ‘I’ve got this’ I think, whilst also hoping there’s not a fourth one. 

The white burls above me fade back into green, then blue. I turn towards the reef to watch the wave roll away from me. I love this view, the colours and light dancing through a moving window of water, obscuring the world above. 

The set is over. I kick back up and look around me, checking for Jasper and Louise. We’ve all popped up. Amidst laughter, we all breathe a sigh of relief. We all thought each other might have got caught out. I look at them; they both have crazy glints in their eyes. I sense I do too. Glints of joy. Glints of ‘that was a bit scary’. Glints of simple presence.

I think we all need more of those feelings. Where we feel confidence in our bodies, and minds. Moments where we go into auto drive, maybe it’s what people call flow state. Experiences where we are no where else other than where we are.